Remove wheel with lug wrench. Once the wheel is removed, you'll see the strut assembly:

Note - The part labeled "Spring Sleeve" is also known as the spring isolator

Use 17mm & 19mm socket wrenches to remove the two large bolts mounting the strut to the trailing arm. This requires two sockets or wrenches since the bolt on the opposite side will just spin otherwise. The strut will fall when these bolts are removed so be sure to catch it.

NOTE: There is a CV boot underneath the strut where the strut will naturally hit when it's removed. Be sure to catch the strut when the bolts are removed to avoid damage to the CV boot below. If you really want to be safe, you can wrap your CV boot in a towel to protect it - just don't forget to remove it when you're done!

With the strut now off of the car, compress the stock spring. Make sure to compress both sides evenly - Don't tighten down one side and then move to the other. WARNING: Compressed springs can kill. Always point the top of the strut away from you and other people and make sure spring compressor is securely fastened. Take turns slowly tightening each side until the spring is compressed enough to take the pressure off the top hat.

A few tips:

1. A wrench may be necessary if clearance for the socket is an issue. Or, if you have a second wrench or socket, tightening the compressor on the other side and it should loosen up the socket that's stuck.
2. Try to position the compressor as close to the bottom of the spring as possible with the bolts on the compressor facing down toward the perch to avoid clearance issues with the nut on the compressor.
3. Don't flip the compressors around where the bolts point toward the bottom of the spring perch - then you'll have problems positioning the top hat properly since the long bolts on the compressor will get in the way. (Yes, the picture at the right shows the spring compressor oriented the wrong way, but do as I say, not as I do!)
4. Be sure to skip a coil when installing the spring compressor. Otherwise you'll have difficulties getting the spring compressed enough. (again, not depicted in the image at the right, but I learned.)

Compressing and uncompressing the springs is a slow process. To speed things up I recommend using an impact wrench or high power drill with a socket bit and socket, u-joint and extension so the spring compressor can be tightened quickly.

When spring is compressed, carefully remove top hat bolt. The top hat bolt is circled in red in image at right, but the spring compressor isn't installed in this shot.

NOTE: The spring must be compressed sufficiently with a spring compressor before you remove the top hat bolt. There may still be some pressure on the spring, causing the top hat to pop off. Be sure to point the top hat away from you!

OPTIONAL: Trim bump stop with razor blade or box cutters. The bump stop is connected to the dust boot and is circled in orange at the right. Tokico recommends trimming no more than 1/3 - 1/2 the length of the bump stop.

UPDATE: It appears the two rings below the orange circle are considered to be part of the bump stop as well. If anyone can confirm this, please let me know. Nonetheless, I trimmed the part circled in orange off. When I first installed my struts and springs I didn't trim the bump stops at all and I had problems with the front bottoming out on larger bumps. Since I trimmed, this very rarely occurs. Also, most people running more mild drops (Eibachs, H&R, etc.) don't trim their bump stops and have no issues. Most spring manufacturers provide detailed instructions on how to trim the bump stops if necessary.

A poll on this topic is here.

Reinstall strut by following the removal steps in reverse order. Use the following torque specs in newton meters (N-m):
- strut to steering knuckle bolts 140-159 N-m
- strut upper mount nuts 39-54 N-m
- piston rod nut (nut that holds down top hat) 59-88 N-m <-NOTE: This is for a factory strut. Follow the torque specs for whatever aftermarket strut you're installing otherwise.

Job half done:

Remove the two outer bolts with the socket setup mentioned above. The nut in the rear is hidden by the metal shield and represented by the orange circle. Attack the nut from above through the higher hole in the shield. The lower strut mount will continue to support the strut after these are removed.

IMPORTANT NOTE: When removing these nuts, make sure not to drop them as they'll be very difficult to retrieve behind the black metal shield. I'd recommend using your fingers for those last few turns to assure you don't drop the nuts. A telescopic magnetic tool would also come in handy if you happen to have one.

Disassemble strut carefully and take note of parts and order. OPTIONAL: Trim bump stop with razor blade or box cutters. The rear bump stop is connected to the dust boot. Tokico recommends trimming no more than 1/3 - 1/2 the length of the bump stop. I trimmed a little less than 1/2 of the rear bump stops. Some spring manufacturers specify the amount the bump stop should be trimmed.

Bump stop and dust boot unit:


Before trimming:


After trimming: